Method of making dress-waists



(No Model.)

H. A. BROWN.

METHOD OF MAKING DRESS WAISTS.

N0. 392,494. Patented Nov. 6, 1888.

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I. PETERS, Pbololilhographer. Washinglon. 0.1:

UNITE STATES PATENT rrren.

HARRIET A. BROIVN, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF MAKING DRESS-WAISTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No.392,494, dated November 6, 1888.

Application filed November 18, 1887. Serial No. 255.557. (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, HARRIET A. BROWN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Mas sachusetts, have invented a new and useful Method of Forming Dress-VVaist-s, of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

My invention relates to an improved method of adjusting and basting to the several pieces of the outer cloth the corresponding pieces of the'lining before sewing said pieces together to form a dress-waist; and it consists in basting by closely stitching in certain lines and in fulling or gathering the lining at certain places, as hereinafter set forth, and specifically pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings, Figure 1 shows one side of a dress-waist; Fig. 2, a sleeve therefor; and Fig. 3, one of the pieces removed from the waist, on which are indicated by dotted lines the lines of basting. Fig. 4 is a section of the part J in the direction of line 1 1 in Fig. 3, and Fig. 5 a section of the same piece in the direction of line 2 2 in Fig. 3.

It has been the custom heretofore in hosting preparatory to sewing the parts of the waist together to fasten each piece of the lining to the corresponding piece of the outer cloth by simply tacking one to the other-that is, making stitches not in any regular or predetermined lines or at any regular or predetermined points, but irregularly and as may be deemed most convenient while basting. Furthermore, the places of tacking have been at considerable distances from each other. \Vhen the pieces are thus basted together, they are apt to slip one on the other, and their proper relative position is easily disturbed, either before or at the time of sewing the parts of the waist together, so that the lining and outer cloth will not lie smoothly one on the other where required, and so that a certain fullness of the lining, which I find very useful at certain places, cannot be maintained as desired.

I baste the piece of lining to the corresponding piece of outer cloth in definite lines. Gertain of these lines are near the edges within and following the lines at which the parts of the waist are to be sewed together. Thus, supbasting will be those indicated by the dotted lines a, b, c, d, e, f, g, h, and z. Such basting consists in fine and regular stitching, as illustrated, the terms line ant regular being employed to distinguish my basting from the tacking made at random at widely-separated places of the ordinary basting, as above set forth. Though it may not be necessary to baste at all of these lines, yet I find it useful. to baste at nearly or quite all of them.

I find it very important in order to make the dress-waist fit nicely and to present a smooth exterior that the lining should have a certain fullness with reference to the outer cloth at and near, especially below, the waist of the form, and that the gathers of this fullness be in a direction transverse to the dresswaist or parallel with a line around the waist. With irregular and occasional tacking such fullness cannot be obtained or maintained at the places and with the regularity required.

I therefore full or gather the lining of part or all of the parts at the waist of the form, as illustrated by the sections of the part J, in the direction specified and as required, and when I thus gather the lining I baste in transverse lines, also by fine and regular stitching, as above specified, as indicated by the dotted lines j, k, and Z in Figs. 1 and 3 and full lines in Figs. at and 5. The lines of basting near the seams will keep the pieces in the required 8 5 general relation to each other whether that be such as to cause the outer and inner pieces to lie smoothly on each other or either to have a certain general fullness. The transverse lines of basting or lines of stitching parallel 0 with aline around the waist enable me to cause and will maintain that requisite fullness at and below the waist of the form. The resulting effect is pleasing and such as it has heretofore been nearly or quite impossible to obtain. The parts having been sewed together after having been thus basted, the waist will fit the form so that the exterior will be smooth and follow the lines perfectly.

By means of my invention there need be no I00 wrinkles even at and below the waist of the form, though the person be very shortwaisted and Very corpulent.

I claim as my invention- 1. The method of forming a dress-waist, consisting in basting together the lining and outer cloth of each of several parts of said waist by stitching in regular lines near and following the lines at which said parts are to be sewed together, and also in causing and maintaining a fullness of the lining of said waist at or near the waist of the form by gathers in the lining and by lines of stitching, which, together with the gathers, are transverse to the waist or parallel with a line around the waist, substan' tially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The method of forming a dresswaist, consisting in making a fullness or gathers in the lining of a part of said waist at or near the Waist of the form and in basting together the 20 lining and outer eloth of said part vby lines of stitching, said gathers and said lines of stitching being transverse to the waist or parallel with a line around the waist, substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth.

HARRIET A. BROWN.

Witnesses:

FRED J. HUTOHINSON, EDW. DUMMER. 

